I’m plugging away at some X-wing repaints these days, so I thought I’d put them up somewhere for viewing and inspiration. Sadly nothing as cool as this but it’ll have to do!
First off, let me just say that stripping these models doesn’t really seem necessary, and by avoiding it you will avoid a lot of headaches. Some of the only models I’ve seen to have a lot of paint on them are Y-wings, but not a lot of folks seem to be using them anyway so maybe you don’t need to worry about it.
For basecoating the X-wing miniatures, I highly recommend an airbrush. This will allow you do lay down basecoats evenly and without clogging the details, which is important since the panel lines are so fine on these models. For colors, I have tried a few and I must say – the colors you think are fairly light greys will appear darker on X-wing models. The stock miniatures are quite bright by default, so having them side by side yours might look darker. Also, at this scale it’s more about shading/inking the panel lines rather than doing hilights, so this makes models appear even darker. Plan ahead and use the right shades of grey, you’ll be fine.
Celestra Grey will work nicely for any ships with a cooler, blue tinted color scheme. Prototype A-wings, TIE Interceptors, TIE Bombers and B-wings spring to mind.
Pallid Wych Flesh works nicely for warm color scheme models, such as the red/orange A-wing (I’m doing one for Tycho Celchu), X-wing or Gold Squad Y-wing.
For a flat grey, like the standard TIE and Advanced, Grey Squad Y-wing or the Falcon, you can use Administratum Grey (the rough equivalent to old Fortress Grey).
For my first repaint, I chose a Green Squad A-wing. The basecoat was P3 Trollblood Hilight, followed by a thinned wash of Nuln Oil. I then did multiple thin coats of P3 Gnarls Green for the squad markings, although I really wish I used another color (Foundation Orkhide Shade) as Gnarls doesn’t cover very well. This was also given a couple washes of Nuln Oil, followed by a reapplied basecoat of Gnarls to brighten it up a bit.
Moving on to details, the darker panels and laser cannons were painted with Eshin Grey, and a dot of P3 Skorne Red was used on the laser cannons. I then reapplied a layer of Nuln Oil to the panel lines, as the previous glaze didn’t really make them stand out. This is one thing I would do differently in the future, reversing the panel line wash and the glaze. Doing the panel lines first allows you to do easy touchups, while touching up after the glaze won’t give you a perfect color match.
The final steps were the canopy and varnish. After painting the glass black, varnish the model with Testors Dullcote and apply some brush-on gloss to the canopy. This will give it a nice showroom shine that really catches the eye at this scale.
To sum up the recommended process:
- Airbrush basecoat color
- Brush on (using thinned paint!) or use airbrush and masking tape to apply your accent panels and squad markings
- Apply Nuln Oil carefully to panel lines
- Touch up the basecoats
- Glaze with thinned Nuln Oil if you want more subtle, realistic shading
- Spray Dullcote
- Brush ‘Ardcoat on to the canopy
You could also add additional paint chipping to your paint schemes if you want, probably between steps 4 and 5. As with larger scale models, you can sponge on a tiny bit of the main hull color to your squad markings to make it look like that layer of paint is rubbing off, and sponge on a tiny bit of dark grey/brown onto leading edges to show a bit of wear and tear.
For weathering pigments, this should be the final step before varnish, as you don’t want to handle a model with unprotected pigments, as they would just rub off.
I have since finished a couple more ambitious A-wings, including a blue Prototype Squad model, Tycho Celchu in red/orange, and a second Green Squad pilot has also been started. He needs some accent panels picked out, then he’s ready for panel lines, final glazes and varnish. ETA for the second batch of models being posted would be the next day or two.