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Loremaster Painting Guide – Part 2

Hooray, the bastard is done! After a week of not putting together very short little blurts of painting, I finally have a finished Loremaster of Hoeth. Click here for part 1, and scroll down for the epic conclusion. Seriously, I took far too many pictures this time around.

Step 5

Step 5

The second big push on the Loremaster started with the robes. I can’t tell the difference between some of the photos I took, possibly due to the terrible lighting setup, but I can describe it in detail.

I touched up the blue-grey cloth with a mix of P3 Greatcoat Grey and Trollblood Hilight, followed by a mix of almost pure Trollblood Hilight.

After two mixes of the previous color with added P3 Frostbite, I did a few extreme edge hilights with pure Frostbite. Shame the pics didn’t turn out, as the transition was fun to do.

Step 6

Step 6

Step 6

Step 6

I’m pretty sure this pic was supposed to show the first hilight on the cape. P3 Sanguine Base with a tiny bit of Trollblood Hilight mixed in… such a tiny amount that you can’t really see it in the pics either…

Step 7

Step 7

Step 7

Step 7

Here the leather belts were done up by blending from P3 Battlefield Brown, through Gun Corps Brown, and finally up to Trollblood Hilight. Can you see a pattern here? I may be addicted to Trollblood Hilight.

Step 8

Step 8

Step 9

Step 9

Step 9

Step 9

Probably just doing more Trollblood added to the cape mix … man, you really can’t see much change in these pictures! Let’s just fast forward a few steps until it’s done.

Step 10

Step 10

Step 10

Step 10

There ya go. You can really see the hilights now, and how the tone is so very different from the red-orange elsewhere on the model. Taking things slow in this color progression is lame as hell, but necessary. You’re mixing a super dark red with a light grey, so any big jumps will look terrible. I’ve messed it up before and it’s not pretty.

Step 11

Step 11

Hey look, it’s gold! The basecoat of Citadel Balthasar Gold was hilighted with a mix of Auric Armor, followed by pure Auric Armor and then mixing in Mithril Silver.

When finished, add a wash of slightly thinned Seraphim Sepia and Druchii Purple. I’ve always loved Jakob Rune Neilsen’s idea of shading gold with purple. Just adds so much more richness to the color.

End Session 2

End Session 2 (Click this and the next one for hi-res)

Here I painted the red heart-shaped gem. Very traditional High Elf iconography, which I approve of. Colors were Sanguine Base, hilighted up through Skorne Red, with Khador Red Hilight for the orange, and then Heartfire for the orangey-yellow part. Can you tell I really prefer P3 reds? I don’t even own any current GW ones.

End Session 2

End Session 2

Bringing the model over to the photo area in the other room, you can finally see a true representation of how this guy was shaping up. Quite happy with all the colors on the model, they really did come together like I had envisioned. Not much left to do, except the “effects” and other finishing touches. Oh yeah, and that sword arm I had been horribly neglecting all along…

Step 12

Step 12

The base actually put up a good fight. I couldn’t remember what colors I used on the original test model, which makes perfect sense since I was quite happy with the result and why would I ever want to remember how to do something that worked out nicely. In the end, it was a mix of P3 Gun Corps Brown and Rucksack Tan, washed with a bit of Seraphim Sepia and Druchii Purple (again with this lovely mix…).

Once dry, this was drybrushed with P3 Jack Bone and Citadel Screaming Skull. This worked out nicely, since the rocks were drybrushed up to Jack Bone as well. This way and untidy drybrushing would just blend into the rocks and no touch-ups would be required.

Step 13

Step 13

And finishing up some details, like the gems and the hair. The hair was done up with P3 Skorne Red and Citadel Squig Orange, just like the bright red trim on the arms.

The gems were all about playing around with some new Citadel turquoise colors I picked up. Of the lot, I settled on Incubi Darkness as the first hilight, followed by P3 Meredious Blue and a mix of Meredious Blue and Frostbite.

Step 14

Step 14

Step 14

Step 14

In order to match the gems, I airbrushed the hadouken/squid/jellyfish/fireball thingy with Meredious Blue (mostly for a bit of overspray onto the hand and arm), followed by a mix with Frostbite, pure Frostbite, and then pure white.

By the end I totally washed out most of the skin color on the hand, which was not my intention, so I built it back up a bit with glaze medium and the original flesh colors.

Step 15

Step 15

Almost done now! The hadouken was reverse-hilighted, as per the new way of painting fire, by mixing up from Meredious Blue to Incubi Darkness and then finally to P3 Coal Black (another one of my favorite colors).

I also did the basecoating and washing on the ever-neglected sword arm.

Finished!

Finished! (Click these next few images for hi-res)

Still finished!

Still finished!

Really glad to be finished!

Did I mention I’m really glad to be finished?

These last few steps on the sword arm were nothing too special. I did the same color progression on the armor, but with multiple layers of the Devlan Mud/Asurmen Blue mixture and also plain Asurmen Mud. All washes were thinned a fair bit with glaze medium and water, so I could carefully build them up in opposing corners for added contrast.

Once dry, I blended back up to Chainmail and Mithril Silver on the edges.

And that’s it, folks! Hope you enjoyed this far too long step-by-step journey through painting a Loremaster. I definitely had fun painting this guy, and while I’m definitely tempted to try and touch up the flaming octopus/glow around the hand area, I can definitely be happy to just stick him in the figure cabinet and get started on the next batch.

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2 comments on “Loremaster Painting Guide – Part 2

  1. nice tutorial, I have to say when I first saw the model I didn’t liked it but now I have seen it from different angels and with a proper paint job I do like him

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