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Loremaster Painting Guide – Part 1

First painting guide in a while, let’s make it a good one! As you can see, I’m doing up a converted High Elf Loremaster of Hoeth, as I indicated yesterday. Fairly standard plastic version, with a few bitz and bobs cut off and magnetized weapon arm, so I can later swap to a shield once I have one made for him. Enough intro, on to the good stuff!

Fair warning: I have probably 200+ paints, even before I factor in my dozens of old mixing pots. Most of the paints I have in my collection are Citadel (old and new), but I probably do a majority of my work with P3 paints. Hopefully you guys have access to them, or at least an understanding of what the new Citadel equivalents are. I only pick up the new pots as I need them, so I don’t know all the new colors off by heart.

Step 1 - Airbrush basecoat.

Step 1 – Airbrush basecoat.

The first stage is the primer and airbrush basecoat stage. After spraying him black, I busted out the old Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and gave him a spray fairly liberally of P3 Greatcoat Grey. This is a very nice dark blue/grey color, and I knew it would make a nice basecoat for the blue-tinted off-white robes. This was followed up by a zenithal spray of P3 Trollblood Hilight. Easily one of my favorite colors these last few years, I use it wherever I can. Spraying from above keeps the paint out of the folds of the model and gives a natural idea of where light would be striking the model. Makes for more natural hilighting down the road.

Step 2 - Basecoat and all-over glaze

Step 2 – Basecoats and all-over glaze

Step 2 - Basecoat and all-over glaze

Step 2 – Basecoats and all-over black glaze

Step 2 was slightly experimental, as I got a chance to use my new home-made glaze for the first time. I have a mixing pot made up of approximately 40% Nuln Oil, 60% Glaze Medium and a splash of airbrush paint thinner. This last ingredient was probably unnecessary, and I don’t know if it helped or hindered the process. The glaze takes a long time to dry, and is slightly tacky for a while so something is off in my mix. This can happen when I use way too much Glaze Medium though, so it could be that as well. Oh well, I have a ton of it and I do like the very subtle shading it gives, so I will keep using it despite the long wait time! This shouldn’t be a problem once I’m batch painting models, and won’t notice the wait time as much.

After that, I did a little bit of basecoating and another wash or two.

The rocks on the base were Charadon Granite, drybrushed with increasing amounts of P3 Jack Bone (Ushabti Bone I believe is the new Citadel equivalent, whichever one is slightly darker than the old Bleached Bone!).

The reds were all basecoated with P3 Sanguine Base, and then hit with a couple thin washes of Nuln Oil and Baal Red mixed together.

The jellyfish was painted with P3 Meredious Blue, and has not been touched since. Not 100% sure how I’m going to pull off the effects I have in my mind, but it will involve intentional airbrush overspray to get a quick and dirty OSL type effect, followed by more of the “reverse hilighting” you see on realistic flames lately. Something along the lines of the Sisters of Averlorn flaming bows would be a nice result.

Finally, the flesh is P3 Khardic Flesh, washed with a thinned mixture of Seraphim Sepia and Druchii Violet. I love this mixture for glazing flesh!

Step 3 - More colors

Step 3 – More colors blocked out

Step 3 - More colors

Step 3 – More colors blocked out

As I continue to flesh out the model with basecoats, the final color scheme is emerging. The metals all get hit up with pure Chainmail, which the camera obviously hates in my painting area filled with lamps, and the leather bits with P3 Battlefield Brown. Another one of my favorite colors to use.

I think the off-white cloth got a glaze of Asurmen Mud here… maybe it came in Step 4. Hard to tell, because I think I did two layers.

Step 4 - More whatever

Step 4 – More whatever, plus I stuck the sword on for a minute to show the final pose

More areas get picked out with Battlefield Brown, as I decided that the belt will just be leather and not red cloth. I didn’t want to draw the viewer’s eye down and away from the model’s midsection, so the color stayed dull.

Gold areas were picked out with Balthasar Gold. This color is as close as I’ve gotten to the old Brazen Brass using the new Citadel paints. It’s not perfect, but it’s close enough.

Finally, I got down to business with some more washes on the metal. The two-tone effect I mentioned earlier can be seen, as the helmet crest thingy and scale mail get hit with a thinned version of my old Asurmen Mud, which is a mixing pot of Asurmen Blue and Devlan Mud mixed together in an indeterminite ratio. It’s basically a darker, duller blue wash, but it remains more blue than brown. I hope that’s vague enough for you…

By now, the cloth was definitely given another wash of the same Asurmen Mud mixture. It’s more obviously blue than before.

The other areas of the armor get a thinned wash of Seraphim Sepia. This is mostly just to tint the armor, as the actual shading comes later in the form of multiple thin Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade washes directly in the recesses of the armor plates.

End of Session 1.

End of Session 1, click for high-resolution.

And his shapely androgenous backside.

And his shapely androgenous backside, again you can click for high-resolution.

And here is a proper photo, as I finish up part 1 of the guide.

The bright red trim received its attention, mixing in P3 Skorne Red into the Sanguine Base. Once I had a mixture of mostly Skorne Red, I mixed in about 50/50 with Citadel Squig Orange. Another brilliant color, it’s a darker, muddy orange that has a million uses when you don’t want to use anything remotely like Blood Red or similar. The topknot is somewhere along the same color transition, but at some stage I forgot to keep working on it and just finished the trim around the arms. Oops.

The bigass collar is finally sorted out as well, as I decided that it logically has to be the same dark red as the cloak for the color scheme to make any sense. It will have the off-white trim on the back to tie into the robes. This is achieved by mixing up through P3 Greatcoat Grey to Trollblood Hilight.

The skin inches closer to its final tone, as it gets two layers of P3 Midlund Flesh cut with Glaze Medium to ease the transitions a bit and smooth it out. Eyes and teeth saw some touchup as well, not that you can see the tiny eyes much sunken into the helm.

Finally, the leather gets another thin glaze or two of Nuln Oil for definition, before it gets blended back up later on.

That’s it for Part 1 of the Guide! The Loremaster sits on my computer desk right now, in the exact same position as the final photo. More updates to come after the next painting session. The cloak and robes will probably be task #1, before moving onto the details and finishing up the two-tone silver. After that, it’s pretty much just jellyfish/fireball time, followed by finishing up the base. Depending on how anti-social I feel the next few days, or how compelling the hockey games are, I might have him done after one more evening of work. Hopefully I can find those few hours this weekend.


One comment on “Loremaster Painting Guide – Part 1

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